Alaska Motorcycle Test Study Guide

Before you ride, be able to find and work the throttle, clutch, front brake lever, rear brake pedal, gear shift, turn signals, horn, headlight switch, fuel valve and engine cut-off switch without looking for them. Sit far enough forward that your arms are slightly bent, hold the grips firmly, keep your knees against the tank and your feet firmly on the pegs (Alaska Motorcycle Manual p.5-6).

• Start with your right wrist down so you do not accidentally use too much throttle (p.5).
• Keep your feet near the controls and do not let your toes drop down — they can catch between the road and the foot peg (p.6).
• On an unfamiliar motorcycle, work the throttle, clutch and brakes a few times and learn the gear pattern before you ride (p.5).

Wearing a securely fastened helmet is the single most important thing you can do to survive a crash — unhelmeted riders are three times more likely to die from head injuries (p.1-2). Most crashes happen on short trips under five miles, and most injured riders were going slower than 30 mph, so gear matters on every ride.

• Choose a helmet that meets DOT standards, fits snugly all around, and has no cracks, loose padding or frayed straps (p.2).
• A face shield protects your whole face; goggles protect only your eyes; a windshield is no substitute for either, and tinted protection is not for night (p.2-3).
• Wear a jacket and pants that fully cover your arms and legs, over-the-ankle boots, and leather or heavy gloves (p.3).

Shift down through the gears as you slow, and stay in first gear while stopped so you can move out quickly. If you downshift while going too fast the motorcycle will lurch and the rear wheel may skid — most likely going downhill or shifting into first (p.7).

• Change gears before entering a turn whenever possible; a sudden change in power to the rear wheel can cause a skid (p.7).
• To start uphill, hold the motorcycle with the front brake while you start the engine, then ease out the clutch slowly as you open the throttle a little (p.7).
• Releasing the clutch too quickly uphill can lift the front wheel or stall the engine (p.7).

New riders crash by taking curves too fast, then running wide or braking too hard. Reduce speed before you enter a curve — you can always speed up as you come out — and lean with the motorcycle (p.6). The sharper the curve and the faster you ride, the more you must lean.

• The key to a quick turn is getting the motorcycle to lean quickly — press the inside of the handgrip on the side you want to turn toward (p.26).
• Press the right grip to lean and turn right; press the left grip to lean and turn left (p.26).
• In a quick turn, stay in your own lane — you can usually squeeze past most obstacles without changing lanes (p.26).

Each lane gives a motorcyclist three paths of travel, each about four feet wide. The center portion is generally the best position for being seen and discourages other drivers from sharing your lane (p.9-10). Choose the position that helps you see, be seen and keep a space cushion.

• Move to the right portion before a left-hand curve; use a left-center position on right-hand curves (p.15).
• When you are being passed, keep to the center portion of your lane — not the side nearest or farthest from the passing vehicle (p.17-18).
• Keep your headlight on at all times and use turn signals every time, since motorcycle signals usually are not self-cancelling (p.8-9).

The two biggest dangers are oncoming cars turning left in front of you and cars pulling out from side streets. Never count on eye contact — a driver can look right at you and not see you (p.13). Scan one-half to a full block ahead on city streets, looking far and near.

• Watch the road surface for slippery spots, gravel, bumps and wet leaves, and look for escape routes in heavy traffic (p.13).
• Intersections are where most motorcycle crashes happen, usually because the driver never saw the rider (p.11).
• At a blind intersection with a stop sign, stop, edge forward, and stop again for a clear view before crossing (p.15).

Wet pavement, gravel, mud, snow, ice, lane markings and steel plates all give poor traction. Pavement is most slippery just after rain begins, before surface oil washes away. Slow down before a slippery surface, avoid sudden moves, and use both brakes gently (p.20-21).

• On a very slippery surface such as an ice patch, keep the bike straight up, go as slowly as possible, and stay off the brakes (p.21).
• Cross railroad tracks by riding straight within your lane; a motorcycle can cross tracks at an angle as sharp as 45 degrees (p.22).
• At night, slow down, open a four-second following distance, and use your high beam when not following or meeting a car (p.25).

The most important emergency skills are quick stops and quick turns — practice them in a safe area first. To stop quickly, apply both brakes, squeezing the front lever firmly without grabbing it. If you must stop while turning, apply both brakes to straighten the motorcycle first, then brake hard (p.25-26).

• If a tire goes flat, hold the grips firmly, stay off the brakes, slow gradually, then edge off the road; a front-tire blowout is especially dangerous (p.27).
• If the throttle sticks, twist it back and forth; if it stays stuck, hit the engine cut-off switch and pull in the clutch together (p.27).
• In a wobble, grip the bars firmly and close the throttle gradually — do not brake and do not try to accelerate out of it (p.27).

Find problems before you reach traffic. While walking to the cycle, check the tires and look for oil or gas leaks. Sitting on it, test the brakes one at a time, check the clutch and throttle, the turn signals, headlight, taillight, brake light, horn and mirrors (p.3-4).

• The throttle should snap back when you release it; clean and adjust both mirrors before you start, not while riding (p.4).
• At minimum a motorcycle needs a headlight and taillight, front and rear brakes, turn signals, a horn and two mirrors (p.36).
• Beyond the pre-ride check, inspect tires, wheels, cables, oil, drive train, brakes and lights at least once a week (p.36-37).

Carry passengers or large loads only after you have a lot of solo experience — the extra weight changes how the motorcycle handles, balances, turns and stops. Your motorcycle must have a proper seat and a separate set of footpegs for the passenger (p.30).

• Instruct the passenger to get on after you start the engine, hold your waist, hips or belt, and keep both feet on the pegs even when stopped (p.30).
• With a passenger, ride a little slower, start slowing earlier, and open a larger space cushion (p.31).
• Keep cargo low and forward — over or in front of the rear axle — distribute it evenly and fasten it securely (p.31).

Ride with others in a way that does not endanger anyone or block traffic. Keep groups small — divide into smaller groups if you have more than four or five riders — and keep the group together by planning ahead and letting the tailender set the pace (p.32).

• Ride in a staggered formation to keep ranks close while keeping a space cushion; never ride directly alongside another rider (p.32).
• Move into single file for curves, turns, and when entering or leaving a highway (p.33).
• When passing in formation, riders pass one at a time and return to their original position before the next rider goes (p.33).

Alcohol, other drugs and fatigue all keep you from being in shape to ride. The first ability alcohol harms is your judgment, and impairment begins long before you reach the legal limit — of riders killed in crashes, 40% had alcohol in their systems (p.34).

• The body needs at least one hour to eliminate one drink; coffee and cold showers do not restore lost judgment or skill (p.34-35).
• Prescription and over-the-counter drugs — even cold and allergy pills — can leave you weak, dizzy or drowsy; never mix drugs (p.35).
• Riding tires you faster than driving; experienced riders seldom ride more than about six hours a day and take frequent breaks (p.35).